Sunday, July 11, 2010

Volgograd to Moscow

















It was a beautiful sunny day leaving Volgograd and our destination was Moscow. We had all agreed that we wanted to get there in two days, not three, and it was approx. 1000 kms. ahead of us. The road was all patchy, under construction with repairs being made along the entire section of single lane highways. Police checkpoints were everywhere. The day warmed up however as the day went on, it became very overcast ending in rain. Travelling on the highway we observed pretty much the same flat, harvested wheat fields with huge sunflower patches and rolling plains that went on for miles. We had a roadside lunch in a wheat field and carried on to an unknown spot for the night. Along the way, four of us passed an unmarked police car doing 100 kms/hr in a marked 50 km/hr zone. When we got to the checkpoint, we were pulled over and the police asked for the front and rear drivers to provide documentation and accompany them to their vehicle where they could show the video of the infraction. A ludicrous amount of money was demanded and after much negotiation some American dollars changed hands and we were allowed to progress - needless to say, no ticket was issued. A storm was brewing, we needed fuel and accommodation so at our first opportunity we pulled over at a truck stop which housed the bikers in the guesthouse and the leaders, Mick and Jason, stayed in a two bed hut at the back of the guesthouse - not enough room to swing a cat around (Aussie humour). After dinner, the entertainment for the night was a strumming session on Jason's guitar accompanied by two Ukrainian men who not only played Jason's guitar as well but belted out lyrics to the music breaking all language barriers.

Now, MOSCOW!!!! Our total focus was to get to Moscow; one of the major highlights of our trip. We had over 500 kms to travel along the long monotonous highways with several police stops; and more as you approached Moscow. The day was once again sweltering hot and our normal two lane highways became four and then six and eight lanes wide approaching the city centre. Traffic was chaos and cars were coming at us from all directions as if they were trying to kill us. Which nearly happened. A drunken Russian screemed up behind Mick, our fearless tour leader, who saw him at the last moment in his rearview mirror and became instantly fearful, gave it a gutful (on the accelerator) and narrowly avoided being mowed down by, ironically, a BMW sedan. Luckily, BMW doesn't have two coats of paint because it was a paint layer away from being swiped. Joe Vella did some of the best maneuvering that any of us have seen so far on this trip as he weaved to try and escape a kamakazee bus driver who was in a hurry going nowhere fast because the traffic was so thick. Joe nearly lost his panniers where his spare underwear was packed (which he almost needed in the moment). Welcome to Moscow!!!!

Moscow is a must for everyone. The first day the group caught the train in to the city centre heading straight for the Red Square. The enormity of The Kremlin, the spectacular and colourful domes of St. Basil's Cathedral with the incredible mosaics on the inside, Lenin's Tomb (no cameras allowed), the magnificent flora of the gardens. We took a tour inside the Kremlin and it's fair to say that it is not only the seat of power but it is also a city within a city within "The City of Moscow". Too much to obsorb in one day so some people went further sightseeing the next day while others had their BMW bikes serviced at BMW where they met Stefan and Layla (Moscovites) who were also having their bikes serviced and offered to translate. While waiting for the bikes, they took Murray and Joe to other bike shops to pick up other bits and pieces needed for trip. Later, they came around to our hotel and took some of the group to the local bikers hangout which overlooked the entire city. We then went on a night ride throughout some of the more affluent areas of Moscow; flying through the city of Moscow that was quiet for a Saturday evening considering how maniacal is was Friday. We ended up at the Night Wolves Biker Hangout which is the largest biker group in Europe and the president of this club not only has met former President Putin but was also blessed by the Head of the Russian Orthodox Church. The Biker Hangout was like something out of Mad Max with welded metal resulting in unidentifiable structures that fused everything together like a modern fortress. Big guys dressed in colours guarded the gates selecting who enters. Before we knew it, it was 1:00 am and we needed to get back to the hotel to get some rest for our early departure to Suzdal.

Since our last blog, we have had a crew change. Due to unforeseeable circumstances, Jason has had to return to the UK and Leo has flown in from Germany to take his place as the Support Vehicle Driver. We thank Jason for his friendship and support and we wish him well. Welcome Leo. Our first night together in Suzdal. Suzdal is not only known for it's many churches but also the remnants of Communism can be seen at Hotel Suzdal as this was the vacation hot spot for Communist Leaders, their subordinates and their families. This hotel is still equipped with bowling alleys, wardrobe centre, concert hall, indoor and outdoor pools and unairconditioned rooms to cater for a small army. In it's hayday, this place would be a vibrant city bustling with people.

We are now travelling on the Transiberian Highway and getting into more remote locations. Our camping days are fast approaching. Our internet service may be very sporadic but we will do our best at keeping you abreast of our travels. We can be followed by satellite link which was attached in a previous blog. Please check it out.

Description of pictures above: Bike maintenance done on my bike in Moscow, pat's flat tire enroute to Moscow, Joe & Isaac in market at Rostov-na-Don, Enroute to Moscow, Monument alongside of the road, Murray supervising Police Stop, Police chekcpoint and Pat's love of the Russian Police, Long days and long roads enroute to Moscow, Group huddle in rain, More bike maintenance.....Until Next time.......

1 comment:

  1. Boy, doesn't that sound like quite the experiences. The police clearly could have thrown you in jail for your speeding so I guess you were lucky. I think you have really seen a lot on this part of your journey. I know that you will soon be out of internet zones, so when you do get somewhere that has service, you will have a lot to report. Try to write down your thoughts, ideas so that you don't forget any part of it. I am sure that there is lots more good stuff as you move forward on the trip. Take care of yourselves...and I mean all of you. Hugs to you! Mom

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